Disclaimer: A copy of this article was published in The Star, written by me. This article was based on my visit to Perak in May, 2022.
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| Victoria Bridge in Enggor straddles Sungai Perak and is still used by pedestrians. |
IT IS said that Larut district in
Perak got its name from an elephant.
When the pachyderm that belonged
to local chieftain Long Jaafar went missing, he offered a handsome sum to finder
as a reward.
When the animal returned several
days later, metallic smudges were found on its legs, that were later found to
be tin ore.
That discovery transformed the sleepy backwater into a mining powerhouse in the 19th century, forever changing Larut’s socioeconomic landscape.
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| A replica of Long Jaafar’s pet elephant named ‘Larut’ with tin ore smudges on its legs at Matang Museum in Taiping. |
Long Jaafar, who grew richer thanks to the mineral business, then named the place after his pet elephant “Larut” in honour of its contribution.
Today, the district is home to
Taiping, a bustling township with modern amenities, attracting both domestic
and international travellers.
Its heritage buildings and lush
greenery offer visitors a relaxing vacation and allow them to get immersed in
local history and culture.
A visit to the town, including to Kuala Sepetang and Kuala Kangsar, found plenty of attractions worth a trip over.
Impressive landmarks
In Kuala Kangsar, the Ubudiah
Mosque in Bukit Chandan is a testament of the financial might achieved by Perak
in the early 19th century.
Built at a cost of 189,000
Malayan dollars, it was a brainchild of the 28th Ruler namely Sultan Idris
Murshidul'adzam Shah.
Having fallen ill, he vowed to
build a mosque should he recover, which saw its construction began in September,1913.
Using marbles from Italy, the
mosque was completed in 1917 – but the Sultan never saw it, having died a year
earlier.
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| Masjid Ubudiah in Kuala Kangsar is a testament to the financial strength of Perak in the early 20th century. |
Since then, Ubudiah Mosque had gone through several upgrades and could now accommodate 1,000 congregants at a time.
Current imam Syed Muhammad Hazwan
Syed Azmai, 34, said the opening of the mosque in Bukit Chandan marked a
turning point in Perak's history.
"Before this area was
developed, the state lacked a centralised administrative location.
“Sultan Idris changed that by clearing
Bukit Chandan and turning it into a state capital,” he said.
As mining activities picked up in
the early 19th century, so did the need for a modern transportation system to
move extracted minerals.
One such example is the Victoria
Bridge, which in present days attracts newlyweds and university graduates for
photoshoots.
Built circa 1900, the bridge in
Enggor was used to transport coal to the Teluk Anson (now known as Teluk Intan)
port.
Between 1910 and 2002, the
353m-long and 3.6m-wide railway served trains plying between Prai and Johor
Baru.
Its service was discontinued after
a new bridge was built nearby, although locals still use it daily to cross the
Sungai Perak.
But its lack of handrails and
holes-pitted floor mean pedestrians must step carefully to avoid falling.
A local from Kampung Seberang
Karai, who only gave his name as Mat, said there used to be safety nets on the
bridge.
"But they were damaged by
passers-by, eventually going missing several years ago, and have not been
replaced since.
"Outsiders may be worried about falling off the bridge but the locals are used to traversing on it," he said.
Rich history
In Taiping, the Matang Museum
chronicles the past struggles of local leaders against the colonial rulers.
Built in 1855, it was originally
the home of Ngah Ibrahim, son of Long Jaafar, before he was exiled to the
Seychelles islands.
Upset with the exorbitant tax
placed on tin production, he took part in a plot against the first British
Resident J.W.W. Birch.
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| Matang Museum chronicles the history of Perak during the colonial rule. |
This resulted in his banishment from Perak, before eventually being allowed to settle in Sarawak, and then Singapore, where he died in 1895.
According to museum assistant Nordiana
Nordin, the Malaysian government brought back his remains on Sept 9, 2006, to
be buried here.
“Unfortunately, it is unclear
what happened to the massive wealth owned by Ngah Ibrahim after he was exiled.
“Many financial records relating
to his business and properties were destroyed by the British occupiers,” she
said.
The mining business also saw more
labourers being brought in from Penang to supply workforce for the mines.
But this caused further strife in
Larut due to the rivalry between the Ghee Hin and Hai San gangs among the
workers.
Their conflict culminated in a
series of wars that ended with the signing of the Pangkor Treaty on Jan 20,
1874.
Another museum in Perak – arguably
its most popular – is the Istana Kenangan in Kuala Kangsar.
Located south-east of the
Iskandariah Palace, this sword-shaped structure is made entirely of wood and
without any nails.
Also known as Istana Lembah and
Istana Tepas, the exhibits include regalia and luxury items belonging to past
Sultans.
Luscious nature
Nature lovers and seafood
connoisseurs should head to Kuala Sepetang where a small fishing village is
located.
Housing some 200 families, many
locals make their living by catching prawns, cockles and fish along Sungai Reba
and Sungai Sepetang.
Many monkeys also make their
habitat in a mangrove forest next to the rivers that flow out to Kuala Larut.
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| Kuala Sepetang was formerly known as Port Weld and the first railway track in Malaysia connected it to Taiping. |
Here, visitors could rent a boat and cruise along the rivers in small groups and even buy fresh catch directly from the fishermen.
Tour guide Mohd Jusri Yusoff, 50,
said on lucky days, the fishermen might agree to sell 1kg of cockles for RM10.
He, however, said the cockles had
grown smaller in recent years after their population dwindled in 2016 for
reasons unknown.
“Usually, the fishermen would
only catch adult cockles while the younger ones would be released back into the
water.
“But the reduced population,
coupled with the increased demand, caused many fishermen to ignore this
practice.
“As a result, the subsequent generations of cockles have a smaller size compared to the ones caught in previous years,” he said.
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| Visitors enjoying their morning at Raintree Walk in Taiping Lake Garden. |
Another must-visit is the Taiping Lake Garden, whose serene atmosphere makes for a perfect venue to relax and wind down.
Many locals come for a casual
stroll and exercise, while others enjoy a picnic with loved ones next to the
lake.
The park, the first of its kind
in Malaysia, hosts 94 raintrees, 32 of which are found at the 630m-long Raintree
Walk.
These trees are between 80 to 130
years old and seven of them are valued at more than RM1mil, according to the
Taiping Municipal Council.
Mysterious appeal
Paranormal hunters may want to
try their luck at the Casuarina Inn, located atop a small hill overlooking the
lake garden.
This abandoned complex sporting
34 white pillars was a rest house for British officials in the 19the century.
The site was turned into a hotel
in the 1970s and remained operational until it was closed in 2010. It has since
been abandoned.
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| The Casuarina Inn atop a hill overlooking Taiping Lake Garden is a popular spot among paranormal hunters. |
There is an urban legend that an apparition resembling a woman in a white dress, believed to be a former maid, haunts the place.
Tour guide Khairul Azman Ahmad,
50, said he regularly ferried tourists who wanted to see the ghost up close at
night.
"I would drive up here, keep
the car facing the exit with the engine running, and tell them to go while I
wait in the car.
"Usually, they will get cold feet and refuse to go and will want to leave immediately," he said with a laugh.
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