Kuching: A peek into Sarawak's heritage

The cats statue in Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman has become synonymous with the city's image.

IF FOOD can serve as a social commentary, then kek lapis Sarawak, known for their colourful stripes, will fit the bill perfectly.

This delicacy often sports vibrant patterns, made by placing several layers of cakes of varying flavours on top of each other.

Just like its cakes which feature many layers, Sarawak too, is home to diverse ethnicities.

Its capital Kuching offers a glimpse into the state’s heritage and culture, offering visitors plenty of attractions and activities to explore.

Data by the Malaysia Statistics Department as of 2020 put the population of Kuching, which spans 450sq km, a little over 800,000 people.

My recent four-day trip here found a city that takes pride in its traditions and the locals eager to welcome tourists.

Riverside attraction

No visit to Kuching is complete without a stroll along the Kuching Waterfront, which lines the south bank of Sungai Sarawak.

Cutting across the city, the 217km-long river flows from the mountain range near the state border with Kalimantan, Indonesia.

In the evening, especially on weekends and public holidays, the waterfront is a bustling social spot, attracting both locals and tourists.

Decorative lights make the Kuching Waterfront a livelier place at night.

Many people flock here to relax and enjoy the view, while others come to have dinner at the eateries along the banks.

Some buskers and street performers in costumes are also regularly spotted on the walkway along the river.

Many shops in Kuching close after 7pm, making Kuching Waterfront the only place with some semblance of a nightlife.

Located across the river is the state secretariat building, where Sarawak's 82 state representatives meet during state assembly sessions.

Darul Hana Bridge draws many to come on it to capture the view of Sungai Sarawak below and the state secretariat building (back).

Visitors can cross the river on the Darul Hana Bridge, which is opened daily from 6am to midnight, to get to the building.

Opened on Nov 11, 2017, the 335m bridge costing RM350mil is equipped with LED lights, which becomes a main attraction at night.

Plenty of roadside traders operate near the bridge’s entrance, selling snacks and drinks from around 6.30pm until midnight.

There is also a tour ship nearby which takes visitors on a 90-minute trip at 5.30pm to sightsee landmarks along the river.

They include Fort Margherita, Brooke Dockyard, Astana, Kuching State Mosque and the residence of the Yang di-Pertua Negeri (Sarawak head of state).

Passengers seeing the performance by ship crews onboard the tour ship.

Onboard, visitors receive refreshments which include kek lapis Sarawak, audio guide and cultural performances from ship crews.

Tickets are priced RM70 (adults) and RM35 (children aged four to 12).

Opposite the waterfront, across the road, is a row of shops, many of which sell handicrafts, souvenirs and, as you might have guessed – kek lapis Sarawak.

Local handicrafts await shoppers at the row of shops opposite the waterfront.

Many souvenirs near the waterfront area exhibit unique Sarawakian patterns.

Wildlife sanctuary

Sarawak is blessed with bountiful wildlife and plant species and a sizeable portion of the state is still covered in forests.

For a closer brush with nature, one should head to Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, located some 20km from the city centre.

The place, which also serves as a wildlife research facility, was established in 1975 in the 653ha of the Semenggoh Nature Reserve.

Visitors capturing the moment when an Orang Utan showed up at the centre.

Here, visitors stand a chance to see Orang Utans – a total of 28 primates have made their habitat in the area.

Majority of the Orang Utans were rescued from illegal trade, while others were taken into custody after being kept illegally as a pet.

The sanctuary opens daily, with feeding sessions scheduled between 9am and 10am (morning) and 3pm to 4pm (afternoon).

Note, however, that the Orang Utans are not captive, so their sighting during feeding time is not guaranteed.

A pitcher plant spotted at the wildlife centre.

The alpha males do not fear humans and there have been cases where they chased after the rangers, so caution is advised.

For Malaysians, entrance is priced RM5 (adults), RM3 (senior citizens, disabled), RM2 (children below 18) and free (children below six).

For foreigners, the prices are RM10 (adults and senior citizens), RM5 (disabled and children aged six and seven) and free (children below six).

Visitors being given a briefing by a ranger before being allowed into the feeding area.

Visitors may get here by the City Link bus on Route 103.

In the city, the pickup point is in front of the Gurdwara Sahib Kuching, near the intersection of Jalan Masjid and Jalan Gartak.

The bus runs every two hours from 6am to 4pm, between the city centre and Semenggoh. 

Each ride costs RM1.

Bustling markets

Kubah Ria Complex hosts plenty of retail shops selling handicrafts and local tidbits.

Those wanting to buy local produce should check out the Kompleks Kubah Ria and Satok market, located about 5km from the city centre.

Opened daily from 10am to 10pm, the Kubah Ria is a two-storey complex with nearly 50 retail outlets, selling local handicrafts and delicacies.

There is also a food court that comprises more than 40 stalls, offering local favourites such as mee kolok, laksa Sarawak and nasi goreng dabai, among others.

The food court at Kubah Ria is clean and spacious.

Located opposite the complex is the Satok market, divided into several sections which include vegetables, poultry and dry goods.

The agrobazaar section sells laksa Sarawak paste and gula apong Sarawak. In the dry good section, visitors can find batik Sarawak.

The agrobazaar section at Satok market sells local produces.

Spanning 5ha, the market is a joint initiative by the state government and Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority (FAMA) to promote local products.

It was opened on Jan 1, 2013, and was built to relocate the traders at the old market in Jalan Satok.

Plenty of parking bays are available in the area. There are also several ATM machines inside both markets.

There is ample parking space at the Satok market.

Satok market is divided into several sections, including the poultry section (pictured above).

Shopping haven

If you love shopping, then Kuching has plenty of spots worth a visit.

Located within walking distance from the Kuching Waterfront, the India Street hosts many textile and fabric shops.

The most popular item here is batik Sarawak, a type of traditional fabric with geometrical patterns that are unique to the state.

India Street is a must-visit for those looking for bargain deals.

The batik are often sold at about RM10 apiece, though some shops offer further discounts if you buy more than one.

There are also long-sleeve shirts for men made of batik Sarawak, as well as dresses and caftans for women.

Batik Sarawak is popular due to its unique patterns.

There are also several Indian Muslim restaurants operating here, open from around 9am to 6pm, daily.

Some stalls sell gambier, an extract from a Sarawak native plant, that is used in many alternative treatments.

The Indian Street is also within walking distance from the Padang Merdeka (Merdeka Square).

From this field, visitors can take a stroll inside the Everrise shopping centre before coming out to the shopping street.

Boats are still the main mode of transport for crossing Sungai Sarawak. 

Another place to shop is located across Sungai Sarawak, where two Malay villages – Kampung Boyan and Kampung Gersik – are sited.

From the waterfront, visitors can take a boat to cross the river, from 10am to 10pm, daily. Each ride costs RM1.

Simply head to any of the wooden platforms along the riverbank and wait for a boatman to come and ferry you over.

Plenty of houses across the river are made of wood and many locals run small businesses in the area.

Ikan terubok masin is popular in Kampung Boyan.

Two most popular trades here are ikan terubok masin (salted fish) – majority of them brought from Kota Samarahan – and kek lapis Sarawak.

Upon requests, the fish sellers will wrap their produce in a box for the buyers to bring with them on their flight back home.

Colourful delectable

It is near impossible to visit Kuching and not notice kek lapis Sarawak being sold virtually everywhere.

It is so popular that there are stalls selling them on five-foot ways in commercial areas near the Kuching Waterfront.

According to a worker at the Kek Lapis Mama Su shop opposite the riverbank, the cakes are prepared fresh daily.

A worker at a shop in Kampung Boyan preparing kek lapis Sarawak.

Once made, the pastry can last seven days before becoming spoilt. If kept refrigerated, it may last for up to two months.

The cakes come in standard sizes, though their prices vary from RM10 to RM25 apiece, depending on the flavours.

Kek lapis Sarawak must be kept refrigerated to ensure their freshness.

Many shops offer tasters for customers to sample.

Kek lapis Sarawak has been trademarked under the Intellectual Property Corporation of Malaysia (MyIPO) since 2010.

This means that while it could be made and marketed outside Sarawak, the labels must not include the word “Sarawak”.

Heritage museums

Borneo Cultures Museum near Padang Merdeka is a must-visit for history buffs.

Kuching has several museums, but the most popular is the Borneo Cultures Museums, located near Padang Merdeka.

This five-storey complex gives visitors insights into the nature areas, history and craftsmanship in Sarawak.

It also offers information on the ancient beliefs, as well as the story of how international trade had shaped the Borneo state.

For adults, entry is priced RM10, RM20 and RM50, for Sarawakians, non-Sarawakians and foreigners, respectively.

For children aged 13 to 17 and university students, the prices are RM5 (Malaysians) and RM25 (foreigners).

Malaysian children below 12 can enter for free. Foreigner children are charged RM20 per entry.

Skeletons of proboscis monkeys displayed at the Natural History Museums.

Sited next to the cultures museum and connected with a pedestrian bridge is the Natural History Museum.

This museum offers insights on the various protected wildlife in Sarawak, many of which are under threat from human activities.

Built in 1908, the premises was once used as an administrative office before being turned into a museum. Entry is free.

Also located next to Borneo Cultures Museum is the Islamic Heritage Museum, which also permits free entry.

It was originally built in 1930 – then known as Madrasah Melayu Sarawak – to train teachers meant for Malay schools.

It was officially reopened as a museum on May 22, 1992, by then state chief minister Abdul Taib Mahmud.

All the museums mentioned open from 9am to 4.45pm (weekdays) and 9.30am to 4pm (weekends and public holidays).

They close on Chinese New Year, Hari Raya Aidilfitri, Labour Day, Harvest Day, National Day, Yang di-Pertua Negeri’s birthday and Christmas.

I am reachable at +6017-628 9812 (WhatsApp) and faridfreddy92@gmail.com (email).